With so much already said about the different fabric types, I think it is time we discussed the weave rather than the fiber or the material. Weaving is one of the processes involved in textile making, and it comes right after the spinning stage.
There are three main weaving types, Satin, Twill, and Plain weave, but here we will be focusing on the Twill weave.
Twill weave is characterized by its diagonal line and high thread count, and you will see this weaving style on most garments, but it is most commonly used for denim fabrics.
Here, you will learn more about Twill fabric, how many types of these twill fabrics are there, and every other general information you need to know about this unique weave style.
What are Twill fabrics?
Twill is one of the three primary weave techniques used in textile making, so instead of the material or fiber, this term is used to describe a fabric weaving technique.
Unlike the other two weaves (satin and plain), known for their distinct straight patterns, the Twill weave is characterized by its diagonal pattern.
Twill pattern has existed for over a thousand years, and you will see this weave style commonly used on clothing articles like jeans, furniture coverings, chinos, bags, and others.
What type of fabric is Twill?
First, you need to know that Twill is not a type of fabric but a weaving technique.
However, with that said, the Twill technique can be used for any clothing or upholstery fabric. Hence, it can take any form: twill weave can be used for synthetic and natural fabrics.
What is a Twill material?
Twill material is any fabric that has a distinct diagonal weave style.
This style usually comes in dark colors on the front and lighter colors on the back.
Also, these material types will have a high thread count meaning they will be durable, opaque, and thick.
What does Twill fabric feel like?
Twill fabrics are usually solid and durable because their fiber is tightly woven together, and this also bestows an excellent draping quality on the fabric.
However, when it comes to the feel of a Twill fabric, the result may vary depending on how the fabric is treated: Twill can either be coarse or soft.
What are Twill fabrics made of?
As I said earlier, Twill is not a fabric type but a type of weave technique used for various fabrics.
Furthermore, they can appear on any fabric, ranging from cotton, silk, wool, polyester, or any blend of these materials.
How many types of Twill fabrics are there?
Twill weave is a technique that does not give itself to a simple classification or type.
It is classified majorly based on four criteria: construction, the direction of the Twill line, the nature of the Twill line, and the base yarn.
Based on the construction
- Warp-way Twill weave
- Weft-way Twill weave.
Based on the direction of the Twill line
- Right-hand Twill weave is also known as the S-Twill
- The left-hand Twill weave is also known as the Z-Twill.
Based on the nature of the Twill weave
- Simple Twill weave
- Expanded Twill weave
- Multiple Twill weave.
Based on the face yarn
- Weft face Twill weave
- Double-face Twill weave
- Warp face Twill weave
How heavy is Twill fabric?
The weight of Twill fabric varies, as it lately depends on the fabric type.
For example, silk Twill fabric is lighter, while Tweed and gabardine Twill is heavier.
In general, the weight of Twill fabric should fall within the range of 180 to 280gsm.
What can I sew with Twill?
Twill can be used in making Tweed, Denim, upholstery, washcloth, bed and bath linen, chinos, and many other items.
Are Twill fabrics good for summer?
Yes and no, depending on the fabric type and the item made.
Silk Twill fabric is usually very lightweight, soft, and has a nice drape, and is usually suitably used in making casual wear that can be worn in summer.
On the other hand, when this fabric is used for making garments like polo shirts, jackets, pants, hats, and suits, they are made sturdy, making them hot. Therefore, Twill fabric may not be suitable for summer cloth.
Is Twill fabric good for winter?
Yes, Twill fabric is suitable for winter, and Twill fabric will make a better choice for winter than it will be for summer.
The Twill weave has a tight structure and is constructed to be highly durable, which is why it can provide more warmth during winter than Poplin fabric made from the plain weave.
Is Twill a soft fabric?
Yes, Twill fabric is soft. Although Twill fabric can be soft, it is coarse, depending on the fabric used in making them.
However, you will see more soft textured Twill fabric. This will most likely be the situation because they have fewer interlacing than other fabric weave types that encourage the free movement of yarn.
This makes them more pliable and softer with better dealing quality compared to plain weave fabrics.
Does Twill fabric shrink?
Yes, Twill fabric will Shrink. If Twill weave is made of cotton fabric, it will shrink no matter whether the clothing item is made from it.
The extent of shrinkage may vary from fabric to fabric. For example, about 12 to 16 percent of your Twill fabric may shrink if it is Denim.
Most other Twill fabrics may have a lower shrinkage tendency of about 10% to 14% or even as high as 16 to 20%.
Can Twill be ironed?
Yes, you can iron Twill fabric. Of course, you can iron your wrinkled Twill fabric. Please ensure you are aware of the tolerance level of the Twill material to heat.
For instance, while a cotton Twill fabric can be ironed on high heat, you may damage your fabric if you iron a silk fabric with a similar heat level.
Is Twill fabric waterproof?
Yes, Twill fabric is waterproof. Even though the most noticeable attribute of Twill fabric is its high thread counts, which makes them highly durable, this fabric type is also known for an unusual trait, and they are waterproof and resistant to air and water.
Is Twill good for upholstery?
Yes, Twill is suitable for upholstery. Twill has been the popular choice for making upholstery fabric for a long time, and that is because materials made with Twill weaves are very durable.
Not only that, but they are also generally resistant to wear and wrinkles, and they drape nicely. So if you are looking for the best fabric for your indoor upholstery, Twill materials should be one of your top considerations.
Does Twill fabric have a nap?
Yes, Twill fabric has a nap. It can be difficult to tell which side of the Twill fabric is the right or wrong side; in most cases, sewists use the nap layout to determine the right or wrong sides when cutting.
How to clean Twill fabric
The best wash to clean Twill fabric is to wash them in the washing machine with like fabrics in a cold water cycle with mild but quality detergent. Wash the fabric inside out to protect the print and refrain from wringing, soaking, rubbing, bleaching, and tumble drying the material.
How to soften Twill fabric
- Put the Twill fabric in the washing machine together with like fabrics. Never should you wash Twill fabric with softer materials.
- Pour a cup of liquid laundry soap into the machine and get a water cycle with 2 tbs. of salt and a cup of liquid fabric softener.
- Leave the machine running until it reaches its final rinse cycle, then open the washer and pour half a cup of white vinegar. If your washer has one, the vinegar should be added to the final rinse tray.
- After the machine’s final rinse cycle, spin and remove the fabric.
- Put the fabric in the dryer and tumble dry with a single dryer sheet. You can also air dry the material if it is stated not to tumble dry.
- Repeat the cleaning process if you are not satisfied with the outcome.
How to iron Twill fabric
Before you start to iron Twill fabric, you must, first of all, know what material it is made of. If you are dealing with cotton Twill fabric, ironing with the high-heat steam setting is best. If it is a blended Twill, the best way to iron this type of fabric is with a low heat setting without steam.