When you step into the sewing field, you realize that you cannot become a professional or an efficient seamstress until you know exactly how to read the sewing pattern. This is important so that you can get started while having all the instructions in the form of a guide.
Howcer, just like any other instruction guide, some sewing patterns are more detailed while other lack a few information. So, when you look at a sewing pattern, it is recommended to determine if all required information is available on it or not.
Many people ask questions like, do sewing patterns include seam allowances? And if not, how to measure and determine the best suitable seam allowances for your clothes?
It is extremely essential to leave seam allowances because ignoring this tiny space can mess up your fabric’s whole cuttings, measurements, and fitting. Well, this article is mainly written to answer all such questions along with many other related aspects. So, let’s just dive into the article and come out with a bunch of useful information.
Also, if you think sewing patterns are costly, check out our article about why sewing patterns are so expensive?
What is seam allowance?
Seam allowance is the free area between the edges or the border of the fabric and the line where stitches are sewn. The exact area or seam allowance varies depending upon the type of fabric, type of stitch, garment design, sewing pattern, and many other things.
Seam allowance can be as small as ¼” and can go as big as many inches. Although these are just ranges that people can use, the actual range that is practiced by almost all seamstresses is from ¼” to ½”.
Do sewing patterns indicate seam allowance?
It varies with different pattern making companies and brands as some include seam allowances in their sewing patterns while others just don’t.
In most cases, seam allowances are included in the sewing pattern by drawing dotted lines along the edges. Even if you have a sewing pattern which does not have pre-drawn seam allowances, you need to take care of this factor by yourself.
You can either draw the seam allowances by yourself after tracing the sewing pattern on a separate paper or you can also trace the pattern on fabric first and then mark the seam allowances on the fabric itself.
Does Mccalls sewing patterns have a seam allowance?
Mccalls is a well-known sewing patterns making brand and there are solid reasons behind its popularity. One of these things is that almost every pattern from Mccalls include seam allowances. They usually go with 1.5cm seam allowances for clothes of regular designs and sewing patterns.
Which pattern company doesn’t include seam allowance?
Many sewing patterns companies don’t add seam allowance in their sewing pattern but Burda is one of the few brands that don’t add seam allowance in their sewing patterns at all.
If you buy any sewing pattern from these brands, you will have to determine and leave a seam allowance by yourself. Just like that, there are also sewing pattern companies that always have seam allowance such as:
- Simplicity
- New Look
- Butterick
Why is seam allowance important?
Seam allowance has many purposes but the most common that make it an essential include the following:
- It prevents seam lines from fraying off raw edges.
- It gives you an opportunity to alter clothes if you ever need a bigger fitting.
- Leaving even a little seam allowance will give extra strength to stitches on clothes edges.
How to tell if a sewing pattern has a seam allowance or not?
Determining whether a sewing pattern has seam allowance or not is not as difficult a task as you may think. Seam allowance is simply indicated by putting dotted lines right near the edges or border line of the sewing pattern. Dotted lines will be marked at about ¼” to ½” of the border line, in most cases.
What is the standard seam allowance for sewing patterns?
¼” to ½” is considered the best suitable range of seam allowances for most of the clothes designs and sewing patterns while ⅝” is considered the common and most appropriate seam allowance in patterns.
This standard seam allowance is perfect as it prevents stitches from frying off the border while also making sure that stitches and layers remain intact.
Where do you add seam allowance to sewing pattern?
As the name suggests, you need to leave seam allowances at every place where seams are situated. This means that you have to add seam allowances to sewing patterns at areas including:
- Straight seams
- Curved seams
- Necklines
- Armholes
The best suitable or recommended seam allowances for straight seams is somewhere between ½”-⅝” while the narrow seams may fall between are ⅛”-⅜”.
Do I add seam allowance to arm holes?
Yes, you need to add seam allowance to your armholes, necklines, and all other areas where seams will be made.
However, the seam allowance will be quite less as compared to what is left for curves and straight seams. This is true in most cases but there are also sewing pattern companies that prefer same seam allowances for all seams of commercial sewing patterns.
Why is it necessary to include seam allowance in sewing patterns?
Having a seam allowance is extremely essential so that you don’t end up with a product having wrong measurements and doesn’t fit you at all.
Leaving about ⅝” of seam allowance will provide you enough space between the cut boundary and seam line of the fabric where they both are joined together.
You may get away without leaving a seam allowance with some fabrics but it will mess with fabric that doesn’t ravels easily while or after sewing.
What kind of seams doesn’t require a seam allowance?
All kinds of seam require seam allowances and it is never a good idea to ignore this factor. However, some seam allowances are a bit visible while others just go invisible.
In this case. The seam allowance of open seam is quite visible while you cannot even notice the seam allowances in closed seams after doing the finishing work on your fabric.
How to determine the suitable seam allowance?
There are many complex ways to measure seam allowance but one is quite simple.
- Start by tracing the whole design from the sewing pattern and mark it as you normally do.
- Now lift up both sides of the fabric that will be joined as seams.
- Look for the extra fabric at the end of the seams.
- Note the measured value of excess fabric carefully.
- Do the same for the other side of the fabric as well.
- Now all the fabric you have is extra and you can determine the seam allowance that suits the best for the fabric, your fitting, and sewing prject’s requirement.
What is the difference between seam allowance and seam line?
The difference is straight and simple, seam line is the straight line where two parts of fabric are joined while the seam allowance is the extra amount of fabric from that seam line.
The purpose of a seam line is just to join two fabric parts together by making stitches while seam allowance is done to prevent the fabric from fraying off raw edges and disturbing the whole fitting of your clothes.
FAQs
How much seam allowance can you add to the sewing pattern?
You can leave an allowance just as you want, especially if you feel that you will have to change the fitting in future to make clothes bigger.
In most cases, you can add seam allowance at any measurement such as ⅝”, ½”, ¼” and it suits best for most of the clothings. However, it can vary just as you like and are comfortable with.
